The Gems of Expression
The Role of Jewelry in Art and Culture

Johannes Vermeer, "Girl With a Pearl Earring," 1665

Photo: https://www.mauritshuis.nl/


Throughout history, jewelry has been far more than mere decoration; it has served as a powerful symbol, a status marker, and a vehicle for storytelling across cultures and eras. In honor of Christelle Yambayisa’s most recent exhibition at the Galerie de Buci, which features a selection of her recent photographs of the Repossi jewelry house’s Serti sur Vide collection, we are exploring how, in the world of art, jewelry has transcended its material form to become a medium rich with meaning, reflecting not only individual identities but also societal values, spiritual beliefs, and even existential questions.
This article explores five distinct artistic realms where jewelry has played a pivotal role: painting, sculpture, cinema, literature and photography. In each medium, jewelry offers unique insights into the times and contexts from which it originates, revealing as much about the creator’s vision as it does about the world around them. Through these lenses, we’ll uncover how jewelry in art has evolved—from symbolizing wealth and power to becoming an emblem of love, rebellion, or personal style.

An emblem on the canvas
In painting, jewelry has long been used as a symbol to communicate wealth, status, religious devotion, or purity, often revealing deeper layers of meaning about the subject and the era in which the work was created. During the Renaissance, for instance, painters like Titian and Raphael portrayed noblewomen adorned with intricate necklaces, rings, and headdresses, symbolizing their high social standing and often their family lineage. Similarly, in Dutch Golden Age portraits, artists like Vermeer and Rembrandt used pearls, a symbol of virtue and purity, to highlight ideals of femininity and elegance in their female subjects, which gave birth to perhaps the most recognizable jewelry portraits: "Girl With a Pearl Earring." Painters like Velázquez and Rubens also employed jewelry as a way to transmit essences of power, often tied to importance of religion. Beyond aesthetic appeal, jewelry in painting serves as a visual tool that helps viewers understand not just who the subjects are, but what values they embody. Each jeweled detail speaks to both personal identity and the social constructs surrounding wealth, power, and morality, inviting us to look closer at the interplay between adornment and the cultural context in which these artworks were created.

Peter Paul Rubens, Portrait of Anne of Austria (1601-1666), Queen of France
Photo: https://collections.louvre.fr/en/ark:/53355/cl010060852

Immortalized in stone
In sculpture, jewelry has long been used to symbolize power, divine favor, and cultural identity, often revealing much about the societies that created these works. In ancient Greek and Roman sculptures, jewelry was often a marker of status, with gods, emperors, and athletes depicted wearing crowns, diadems, and necklaces. In ancient civilizations like the Iberians, jewelry also played a significant cultural role. A prime example is the Dama de Elche (c. 4th century BCE), a famous Iberian limestone bust discovered in Spain. This sculpture depicts a woman wearing elaborate jewelry, including large earrings, a necklace, and a diadem. These jewelry pieces are not only highly detailed but are also indicative of the subject's high social or ritual status. Other ancient cultures, such as the Egyptians, Persians, and Celts, used sculpture to immortalize individuals adorned with jewelry that conveyed their wealth, status, and spiritual significance. In Egypt, pharaohs were often depicted with intricately designed headdresses and collars, symbolizing divine rule and eternal life. In Celtic art, jewelry was sometimes incorporated into stone carvings, blending ornamental and symbolic elements that conveyed both social status and mystical beliefs.

Portrait of Helmut Newton
Photo: Francisco J. Díez Martín

Shining on the silver screen
In cinema, jewelry often becomes an essential narrative device, helping to define characters, advance plots, and create lasting visual icons that resonate with audiences. Whether symbolizing wealth, romance, or transformation, these pieces of jewelry hold a storytelling power that often transcends the screen. In Breakfast at Tiffany’s, for instance, Audrey Hepburn’s Holly Golightly became synonymous with elegance and mystery, her diamond necklace and little black dress creating an image that would become emblematic of timeless style. Similarly, in Titanic, the fictional “Heart of the Ocean” diamond serves as a symbol of love and loss, driving the story’s emotional core as a treasure both beautiful and tragic. Beyond romantic drama, jewelry in superhero and fantasy films often carries magical or transformative qualities—such as Wonder Woman’s iconic bracelets or the One Ring in The Lord of the Rings—imbuing characters with special powers or marking them as heroes. Through these visual symbols, jewelry in film extends its impact, crafting memorable moments and enriching characters’ inner worlds, whether they represent unattainable dreams, epic quests, or transformative journeys.

Theatrical poster for the American release of the 1961 film Breakfast at Tiffany's.
Photo: Scan via Heritage Auctions.

Through a camera lens
In photography, jewelry often plays a central role in shaping identity, conveying style, and pushing creative boundaries. Fashion photography, especially, relies on jewelry to emphasize glamour and sophistication, as seen in iconic images by photographers like Richard Avedon, who used diamonds and pearls to enhance the allure of his subjects. Jewelry also plays a significant role in portrait photography, where pieces such as family heirlooms or cultural symbols offer glimpses into personal or ancestral stories, imbuing portraits with layers of meaning. Avant-garde and conceptual photographers often experiment with jewelry in unconventional ways, using exaggerated or surreal adornments to challenge societal norms around beauty, body image, and status. Our very own Christelle Yambayisa, in her exhibition Trois Facettes, at the Galerie de Buci, captures jewelry through photography not just for a fashion house campaign, but for her personal style and artistic growth. The control of her image, the need to break away from the established framework, her way of seizing her opportunities while seeking stability, this duality is transposed in Christelle's photographs.

Christelle Yambayisa, La Dualité, c-print, 2024 (tirage de 5 exemplaires)
Photo: © Galerie de Buci

Stories through the page
In literature, jewelry often carries deep symbolic meaning, shaping narratives and revealing the desires, conflicts, or transformations of characters. Across genres, authors use jewelry to represent themes such as power, love, heritage, and mystery, making these objects central to the story’s unfolding. For instance, in The Lord of the Rings, the One Ring symbolizes the corrupting allure of absolute power, with each character’s interaction with it revealing their inner strength or vulnerability. In F. Scott Fitzgerald's The Great Gatsby, Daisy Buchanan’s pearls serve as a reminder of her wealth and the societal pressures that define her choices, subtly hinting at the hollowness of the era’s pursuit of wealth. Heirloom jewelry in romance and mystery novels often adds intrigue and emotional depth, as characters uncover family secrets or reconnect with lost love through treasured keepsakes. In each case, jewelry in literature is more than a decorative detail—it acts as a literary device that enhances plot and character development, adding layers of meaning that resonate with readers long after the final page.

Cover Idea for "The Lord of the Rings" by J.R.R. Tolkien, 1954
Photo: © The Tolkien Trust 1992.

Jewelry has proven to be much more than an accessory in the world of art; it is a powerful symbol that transcends its material form to convey messages about identity, status, power, and emotion. From the painted portraits of the Renaissance to the sculptural masterpieces of ancient civilizations, jewelry has consistently been used to represent the most profound aspects of human life, from spiritual devotion to earthly ambition. In modern times, filmmakers, photographers, and writers continue to utilize jewelry to amplify character traits, evoke themes of love and loss, and craft memorable, iconic moments. An excellent contemporary example of this is Christelle Yambayisa's recent exhibition, which beautifully integrates jewelry into her art, which is on view at the Galerie de Buci until November 9th.

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